API Quick Start vs Tetra Safestart – Which is the Best Water Conditioner
Before we get into our comparison of API Quick Start vs Tetra Safestart, we would like to talk about the importance of cycling your tank. If you put fish or corals in a tank that isn’t properly cycled, they will be fighting an uphill battle for survival and may die before the system has a chance to regulate.
Cycling refers to the process where ammonia is converted to nitrites which are then converted to nitrates. Once your ammonia and nitrite levels are down and the non-harmful nitrates are present, your tank is ready for some new occupants.
The bad news is that this process can take about a month to complete naturally. The good news is that you can use quick-start additives containing live nitrifying bacteria to cut the cycling time down to a day or two. Nitrifying bacteria are responsible for the conversion that takes place during cycling.
Let’s take a look at the properties of API Quick Start vs Tetra Safestart – the two most common starter additives – how to use them properly, and which option will get your new tank off to the right start.
API Quick Start vs Tetra Safestart Product Comparison
Both additives contain live nitrifying bacteria that will neutralize harmful ammonia and nitrites. They can both be stored at room temperature, and they both allow fish to be added immediately to a tank – no waiting period required!
They can both be used when starting a new tank, adding fish to an established aquarium, after filter changes, or after medicating your tank. Basically, any time you see an ammonia or nitrite spike, these products can be added to help reduce dangerous levels without harming your fish.
One of the biggest differences is that Tetra Safestart can only be used in freshwater aquariums while API Quick Start can be used in freshwater or saltwater. This means that if you are looking for a saltwater starter, your decision may be made by default.
Another difference is the type of bacteria these products use. Tetra uses bacteria cultivated from aquatic strains which are better suited to survive in your tank. In contrast, API cultivates its bacteria from land-based industrial strains. This means they have a tendency to die off faster and become less effective over time.
How to Use These Products
Step 1: Condition the Water
The first step is to add a conditioning agent to your tank. This will remove chlorine and other harmful trace elements that come with tap or even filtered water. It will also kill off both harmful and helpful bacteria.
Be sure to wait at least 24 hours after adding your conditioning agent before moving on to the next step.
Step 2: Add the Recommended Dose
Shake the bottle well and add the recommended dosage based on the included instructions. Some people prefer to dump in the whole thing, reasoning that it’s all good bacteria, so amount makes no difference. While it is hard to overdose your tank, you may need more of this product later on, especially if you’re using API Quick Start, so it makes sense to only use the amount you need.
Step 3: Fish or No Fish?
Next, you need to determine if you’re going to cycle your tank with or without fish. Part of the appeal of these products is that you can add fish immediately, but I would recommend cycling without fish for a very important reason: dud bottles.
There are customers who claim that neither of these products works, but it’s likely they just received a bottle that got too hot (or too cold) in the shipping process. The live bacteria in these products is only viable when kept between 40- and 80-degrees Fahrenheit. If the bottles are exposed to temperatures below or above these thresholds, the bacteria can die, rendering the product useless. This is why I recommend adding a starter to a fish-free tank and testing the water for a day or two to make sure the bacteria is working properly.
Step 4: Feed the Tank
Ammonia is required to start the cycling process and most commonly comes from fish waste. However, if you are cycling your tank without fish, you can just add fish food for a day or two. This should release enough ammonia as it breaks down to start the cycle.
Another reason these products sometimes receive bad reviews is that people don’t feed their empty tank enough to cause a spike in ammonia. This lack of ammonia will cause the bacteria to die before it can do its job. Then, when fish are added and the ammonia and nitrite levels rise, there are no helpful bacteria to regulate the system.
Testing the water before adding fish will allow you to watch for the spike and fall of ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates that will indicate the cycle was completed successfully.
Step 5: Add Fish and Monitor Levels
Once your tank is cycled and your fish are added, continue to test the water to monitor the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Start by adding a few fish at a time so the system doesn’t experience an extreme ammonia spike. If ammonia or nitrite levels do start to rise, add more of the starter agent until you’re sure your tank’s natural system is established. This is especially important if you are using the land-based bacteria strains in API Quick Start since they tend to die off faster.
And the Winner is…
Tetra Safestart is my pick for freshwater aquariums when it comes to the API Quick Start vs Tetra Safestart showdown. This is mostly due to the longevity and resilience of Tertra’s aquatic-based bacteria strains.
Establishing and cycling a new aquarium can be a long and tricky process, but it doesn’t have to be if you use a starter like API Quick Start or Tetra Safestart. Tetra has bacteria better suited for aquariums, but API can be used in saltwater tanks. Both are good options to turn your tank into a safe, healthy, and happy environment in no time.